Nombulela and Sibu decided to come visit me
in Telavi on Saturday. They had just
planned on coming any old random day, but it turned out that there was quite a
bit of activity in the city that day. On
my way to meet them at the marshrutka station, I ran into Gucha, who told me
that Sakashvili would be in Telavi that afternoon. The centre of the city was full of people
scurrying around to finish all the construction projects before the Big Guy
arrived. It reminded me more than a bit
of when The Suits would come to visit Kroger: everything looked very pretty
when they walked through but would fall apart as soon as they left. Turf was laid, balconies were painted, and
all the trash was thrown behind the courtyard walls where it wouldn’t be seen until after everyone left, like cleaning
your room by throwing everything under the bed.
This was all bare dirt a few minutes before. |
We ran into Paul working on his movie at
the USAid office, and he joined us for lunch at Limbo, a grocery store kind of
like Ukrops without all the groceries. (I know that doesn’t make much sense. In Georgia, it makes perfect sense.) With Paul in tow, we explored the Old Castle,
which was finally open. Maybe it wasn’t
open, but the guard didn’t stop us from squeezing through the gate, which
counts as open. This castle has been
closed for renovation since I came to Telavi, so I had never actually seen
it.
The castle and a statue of King David, all pretty for the festivities. |
Inside the castle, where we probably shouldn't have been. |
This tree is supposed to be eight hundred
years old, which makes it magical. We
were told to hold hands and walk around it in a circle to make a wish. The group of kids hanging around the tree
were there for the sole purpose of holding hands with visitors and
wishing. According to the girl who
seemed to be in charge of the operation, they are from a club sponsored by the
government to foster leadership and patriotism.
It sounded a bit like the Young Pioneers to me.
Dear Magic Tree, please bring me a pony and some reliable electricity |
Because of its geography and history,
Georgia has a very homogenous population.
Almost everyone I’ve met here looks like cousins. I get stared at all the time because I am
taller and lighter than the Georgians, but it was nothing to what Nombulelo and
Sibu faced when we walked through the random street festival. People were pointing at them, taking pictures
of them, even trying to touch them. When
Paul and I told some guy not to take their picture, he got very angry at
us. Even my host family was shocked when
I brought these ladies home.
Not pictured: Sibs and Nombulelo |
Nombulelo had to catch the last marshrutka
back to her village so she could make it to her host father’s birthday supra
the next day. It was very sad to see her
leave us. She called later and said she
was standing outside her house and waiting for a marshrutka to fall from the
sky to bring her back to Telavi. I told
her it probably wouldn’t work very well after falling from that height, but she
was still hopeful.
Still not pictured: Sibs and Nombulelo. Actually, I have no idea what this is; these people were just wandering down the street and dancing. |
Emma, a TLGer who has been in Telavi for a
year, had a party at her flat for TLG teachers from all around Kakheti that
evening. We met lots of other
English-speakers, including some from right here in Telavi. I finally learned the name of the guy with
the camera who is always hanging around the USAid office: Giorgi. Honestly, I should have guessed as much; it
seems half the male population in this country is named Giorgi. The party was fun and bizarre, like they all
seem to be. I played drinking games with
a bunch of Georgian guys who didn’t know enough English to understand the
rules; I listened to a South African and an Australian debate their countries’
respective immigration policies; I heard a half-drunk Lithuanian and a
completely drunk Georgian arguing about election transparency; and I now have a
bunch of numbers in my phone with names I don’t recognize.
City Centre, the theatre, the library, and a bunch of random Georgians. Emma's ideal location! |
About halfway through the party, I noticed
a bunch of people setting up instruments on the huge stage just outside Emma’s
flat. When the band came on and started
playing, I thought they sounded awfully familiar. It was the Gypsy Kings, playing in Telavi,
right outside the window. How did I miss
that memo?! Tarkhun, Gypsy Kings, and
fireworks. It was a good party.
None of my pictures from the evening turned
out, so I invite you instead to enjoy this photo of Ursha and Kiki, the two
puppies at my house.
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