Wednesday, October 31, 2012

K'azbegi

Friday was payday, and we celebrated by going to Tbilisi and Georgetti.  I met several people from Group 43 at the unofficial American Embassy (McDonald’s) who were all going to a music festival that evening.  Kelsey S and I tried to go to the USA2Georgia office so she could pick up a package and I could send one.  We may have gotten off at the wrong metro stop, because we had no luck finding it.  When we stopped in a pharmacy for directions, we were told that it was both three hundred metres and three kilometres away.  I’m still trying to get used to the metric system, but I think that’s a pretty big difference.  For some reason, our phones weren’t working, so we couldn't even call the office and ask.

No matter.  We found the hostel, which was the really important thing.  For ten lari a night, we got a bed, wi-fi, and unlimited wine.  Not a bad deal, in my humble opinion.

Next morning, bright and early, we found a marshrutka and started the three-hour drive up the mountains.  Georgetti is a really big church and monastery on a mountaintop.  K’azbegi is the mountain behind the mountain with the church and monastery.  I was confused, and I may still be confused, but this other mountain was pink.

Does anything else really matter?

When the marshrutka driver stopped and told us we had arrived, I looked around the town for the church.  The only thing I saw that looked like a church was that one way up there, but that couldn’t be the one we were going to, right?  Uh, right?  Guys?

It's that tiny little dot on top of the closer mountain.

The climb took us nearly four hours, but it was perfect weather and fabulous scenery.  Not to mention some excellent company.  The company actually got smaller and smaller as we went up.  Pretty soon, it was just Tom, Kelsey M, and myself as people fell behind or turned back.  After about an hour of nearly vertical walking, Tom turned to us and said, “It starts to get a little steep here.”  And then he reminded us that he trained in Special Forces by proceeding to walk up like it was no big thing.  Olly told me once that Tom likes to go running in his village with bricks and water jugs in his backpack.  It shows. 

It was really that steep, not a trick of the camera.

Two roads diverged in a yellow wood...

Kelsey and I had a more leisurely scramble.  The leaves were just starting to turn yellow in the woods, and we could see Mount K’azbegi covered in snow in the distance most of the way up.  When we finally made it to the top, I thought the whole hike was worth it. 

Proof!

There was a baptism going on in the church, so I didn’t take any pictures inside.  It was brighter than most Georgian churches I’ve seen, with frescoes on the walls and windows letting in the sun up near the top of the dome.  The outside, of course was spectacular.  Every direction I turned, I could see another angle of the mountains and the town and the snow.  Sengka decided that she wants to move her bedroom there so she can see that view every day.  Max did the next best thing by staying to camp on the mountaintop.

Georgetti Monastery
Mount K'aszbeghi

On the drive back, every seat in the marshrutka was full and a man was crouching on the floor by the door.  I thought he’d be very uncomfortable if he had to stand hunched over like that for the entire three hour drive.  Not long after we left the town, the driver pulled over, and a man standing by the road opened the door.  He handed a stick to the man inside.  It was a pretty nice stick, about the size of a walking stick, but I really want to know how long that man was standing by the side of the road with a stick.  We drove a bit further on, and the driver pulled over again.  The man who was now holding the stick hopped out and started walking off toward… well, nothing that I could see.  This whole exchange was so baffling that I’m still trying to think of a reason for it.  Any ideas?

This was on the way back to Tbilisi

That evening in Tbilisi, and the whole of Sunday was kind of a celebration of all the food we’ve been missing in our respective towns and villages.  Fajitas, chips and salsa, strawberry ice cream, omelettes, schwarma, chocolate, everything.  I ate so much, and it was all amazing.  Georgian food is good, but I was missing the variety. 

I missed the last marshrutka back to Telavi, so I had to take a taxi.  The old lady beside me in the taxi decided that I would marry her grandson.  She didn’t seem to care that I’ve never met her husband and I’m already married.  My wedding is all worked out in her head, apparently.  His name is Giorgi, and he is seventeen.  Be still, my beating heart.  

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